chef’s pants

I’m using a pattern I’ve made at least twice before, McCall’s 2233, Uniform Essentials.

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The fabric is from Fabric.com, Michael Miller Nevermore Collection Old Script Urban Grit Black.  That’s a mouthful.

 

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Way back when, I was smart and glued the pattern to some sturdier brown paper, knowing I’d reuse the pattern in the future.  Only problem, I lost the pocket pattern piece somewhere in my many moves!  I had some brown paper and using the image in the instructions, cobbled together a makeshift pocket. Worked fine.

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I always forget to take pix while I’m sewing.  Since I use the Serger for my seams, I had to do a little finish work with the regular sewing machine.  Here I’m making a mess of the pockets.

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One of the things I like to do is to finish all raw edges with the serger.  Below I’m serging the edges of the waist.  This gets turned under and made into the casing for the elastic, but I still like to finish it.  In my mind it tends to unravel less.

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I’m putting the elastic in the casing below.  How do you do that?  Tried and true method: Use a safety pin.

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Now for the tutorial. I hope I can explain this half as well as I would like.

How to use the blind hem stitch on your sewing machine.

First of all, you have to press your hem nice and neat.  Here I just made a tiny ~1/2 inch hem because the pattern is kind of short for my husband (I found out on the previous pants I made).  I could lengthen the pattern, sure.  But I am lazy and that is a topic for another blog post!  So…turn under your nicely serged hem.

PressAHemThen you need to select the correct stitch on your machine.  It should look like a zig zag with straight stitches in between. In my case, it’s #18 on the Pfaff Creative 2144.

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Be sure to lengthen the stitch a bit, otherwise it’s too close together.

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Then you bring over you nicely serged and turned pant leg, ready to be sewn:

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And you Flip The turned hem UNDER, to make a little lip of the pant leg on the left, and the hem on the right.

FlipHemUnder See the little fold there right under the presser foot? THAT’S the key.  You want to imagine the fabric in a Z shape under the presser foot.  When the need is doing the straight stitch, in the right-most position, it will enter the bottom layer which is the hem.  When the needle “zags” over to the left, it will catch the pant leg briefly, then return back over to the hem.  The results are beautiful.

Here is the finished hem.

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And here is what the “zigs” look like (had to search to find a visible spot, they really are blind stitches with the right thread color!).

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Here’s the finished product.  Even the goof up on the pocket is hard to see.

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I made a small video of the sewing machine actually stitching the blind hem stitch.  Need hubby to help me get past the 2mb size limit on uploading media. Grrr.  Maybe if I bribe him with some fancy new chef’s pants…?

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